The nearest I’ve come to answering these questions has been eating at Foul Witch, a five-month-old Italian restaurant in the East Village owned by two of the founders of Roberta’s and Blanca.
Roberta’s is, of course, the Bushwick restaurant known for its artfully charred pizza, its Tiki Disco parties and the radio station that broadcasts programming about food from its backyard.
Blanca is a 12-seat bunker in the same backyard that has been closed since the early days of the pandemic.
Agnolotti would burst with molten taleggio turned green-black by powdered phytoplankton that tasted like the bottom of the ocean.
Dry-aged duck breast would be grilled slowly over Japanese charcoal and served with beet mole, as earthy and smoky as an underground fire.
Persons:
I’d, Carlo Mirarchi
Organizations:
East Village
Locations:
East, Blanca, Roberta’s, Bushwick